Oscar de la Renta used to rant about post-work shows. “I think it’s incredibly rude to ask people to go at night,” he said. Yet there we were at the New York Public Library with the clock creeping towards 9:45 this evening waiting to see the new OdlR collection from Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Though Kim and Garcia have built up a lot of good will—not least of all with Scarlett Johansson’s scintillating look at the Oscars last night—the interminable wait at an hour when most of us would rather have been eating dinner or, heck, at home in bed put a damper on the proceedings.
The 9 pm time slot was apparently chosen with intention: Kim and Garcia wanted to do “a party collection.” They referenced photos of Truman Capote’s famous 1966 black and white dance for Katharine Graham as inspiration, which de la Renta attended in a tux and furry black cat mask. From there, their backstory zigzagged via Caravaggio paintings to Disney’s Fantasia. “‘The Sorcerer’s Apprentice’ is very much what we were to Oscar, showing up in his studio, running amok, and creating things that would make him smile,” Garcia explained.
If he would’ve disapproved of the set-up—the Public Library’s long hallway made pacing an issue, to boot—they tried to stay true to the joie de vivre that was de la Renta’s signature. The daywear was distinguished by color-blocking, and the bright hues were picked up in the chiaroscuro prints of a nice silk faille dress. But this collection was really all about cocktail and eveningwear. Fantasia fireworks decorated a fil coupe long dress and feathers embellished many others. And naturally Johansson’s Academy Awards dress was reinterpreted a handful of different ways. Next season, though, they’ll have to pick a more reasonable time and run a more organized show, or risk some RSVP regrets.
Photos are courtesy of Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
From VOGUE US