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Spring 2020 Collection

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Simone Rocha Spring 2020 Collection

16/09/2019

“I was thinking about the Irish Wrenboys, who go hunt and kill a wren on St Stephen’s day in Ireland—punkish boys who go knocking on doors, kind of like trick-or-treaters,” said Simone Rocha. “So I wanted to bring that masculinity to the table—but also turn and look into the houses of the people whose doors they knock on—at the Delft china, the tablecloths, the wallpaper.” Well. Anyone who isn’t of a Celtic European background, or indeed a folklore specialist, would…

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Marc Jacobs Spring 2020 Collection

12/09/2019

The models in Marc Jacobs’s show emerged en masse from the far side of the Park Avenue Armory tonight, spilling out of a small door and spreading to fill the cavernous space. A chorus line of brilliant color, sparkle, flower prints, and Stephen Jones chapeaux, they got closer and closer and eventually breezed right past the audience. For a brief moment some thought it was over before it began. Jacobs is just perverse enough to do it, but he had…

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Proenza Schouler Spring 2020 Collection

11/09/2019

It’s been a year since Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez returned to the New York Fashion Week calendar from Paris and the guys have got their groove back. “We locked ourselves in the studio all of August, just working,” said Hernandez, sounding like that was a truly good thing. Recently, he and McCollough have toggled between couture-ish experimentation and pared way down sportswear. This collection struck a satisfying medium, balancing structured tailoring with soft draping. Their dresses had a high…

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Tom Ford Spring 2020 Collection

10/09/2019

When it comes to Tom Ford nothing is ordinary. For the presentation of the Spring 2020 collection, the designer picked the subway as the perfect spot. Each year, designers tend to organize their fashion shows in particular places that will be remembered for years. For example, for the 10th anniversary of Jacquemus as a brand, the designer chose Provence as the perfect location, where models were seen walking in a field full of lavender. Such particular places make a runway…

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Prabal Gurung Spring 2020 Collection

09/09/2019

Who gets to be an American? The question was spotlit on the cement floor of Prabal Gurung’s Spring Studios showplace. A Nepalese immigrant, Gurung has made his politics increasingly clear in the years since President Trump’s election. If, once upon a time, there was a concern that fashion and politics don’t mix, it’s been replaced by far more urgent worries. Gurung had plans to celebrate his 10th anniversary this season, christening the Vessel at Hudson Yard’s with its first-ever fashion…

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Brandon Maxwell Spring 2020 Collection

08/09/2019

For a designer best known for dazzling evening frocks, there was an awful lot of denim on Brandon Maxwell’s runway this evening—not to mention, a whole bunch of men. The introduction of menswear and the emphasis on daywear looks for the gals were two welcome surprises from Maxwell, who attributed the change-up to an upswing in mood: Last season, Maxwell noted, speaking backstage before the show, he’d been reckoning with some personal hardships; this time around, as he began to…

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